Warning..deep thoughts day..read at your own risk...
Went for a surf today!! Surfing is the highlight of my day..after of course my wife's kisses, we were walking down the beach for our morning start, nice and refreshing the air, and eventhough I was biting my lips because a few guys were catching waves, I was still stocked of looking at Jen so happy for being out with me, so I just tried to keep biting my lips till she said to my:"Darling, do you want to go surfing?"...That's when I understand why I married her. So We went back home, put my wettie on and in less than 10 minutes I was in the water, my body was floating on my surfboard and I connected with ocean and the waves straight away, and as the usual, I got carried away with my deep thought and reflection about life, my meditative moment started in the same instant I deeped myself in the first wave for my first duck dive! It's like my brain get refreshed everytime I get in contact with the ocean, notting else matter, nobody can disturb my feelings, everything is good and I get back to life, I finally keep living and breathing, every stroke my arm reaches deep in the abyss, almost like I want to reach te bottom and get a bunch of sand and tickle the oceans tomy. After a few waves I realized that today I was more connected with my inner toughts that with the waves and after a few seconds of frustration for not being able to pull off some maneuvres, I realize a surfer is not who does aerials and get 15 feet barrels every day, a surfer is simply who enjoys that moment and is happy just for being in the water catching some wave and getting a blast for that gliding feeling when you are on the wall of the wave, the colors are beautiful, the shape of the ocean changes e reaches the ferfection once it breks and rolls all the way through till shore disappearing in the sand like it never exsisted!...
It doesn't matter if one day we are able to give the best of our self, the most important thing is that we are there there and we can feel the power of the ocean!
I was 21 when I lost the most importat person of my life, the motivation for everything I was doing, my best friend and my guru, ,my dad passed away for a brain cancer in 6 months, I felt his heart beating as fast as it could before shutting down for ever, and since then I met people that led me to water sport, and evry element, the Hawling , wind while I was windSurfing and KiteSurfing, the breaking Waves when I was jumping high on my windsurf or getting barreled surfing, the sound of the deth of the ocean when I was getting draged down by a wave during a big wipe out, the Dolphins palyng in the surf and talking in the warm water of Australia or the barking sea lions in the cold water of Canada.....every singl thing in the water, reminded me of my best friend, My Dad and therefore I kept doing it, and every time I get in the water I can talk to him and I can feel that he is with me.
SInce that moment I made many reflecions about life and I realized that our world is being destroyed thanks to our greedyness and I don't want to be touched by fakeness anymore and the water, the ocean and its waves are true, they will never lie to me, that's why I now live in Tofino, the purity of this place, the untouched beaches of the west coast and the ocean, keeps me and my wife grounded on this earth! every tree I touch is full of life and every particle of oxigen I breath is still pure and healthy!
I hope this 2012 will bring consciousness to people on thi heart and that everyone will realize that we have to love our planet, reduce our waste, counting more on sustainable energy .
I will leave now, today is my day for deep thought ..so I have to stop writing otherwise I will never stop...
Peace and Love and Surf
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